JBO'C's Historical Reference

On Journeys Between Herat, and Khiva by Goldsmid

Journal of the Royal United Service Institution
VOL. XIX. 1875. No. LXXX.

LECTURE.

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 might have been added on the S.W. as an important city within the specified limits.

Serai. — Herat has been often described. In reverting to it we need not go back to the classical period, or even to the Arabic and Persian geographers, though materials are ample in both respects. During the present century Christie is its earliest English visitor; but Forster preceded him by 27 years, or in 1783. Arthur Conolly, a hero in life as a martyr in death, was there in 1830. His Persian attire did not divest him of his English personality, and his name and nationality were known to Shah Kamran. From Eldred Pottinger's arrival there in 1837, until Todd's departure in 1841, it was the open abode, as well as halting-place, of many British Officers. After the latter year, less direct and trustworthy information on the locality has been at the disposal of Her Majesty's Government, if we except that obtained by Colonel Taylor's mission in 1857, and by Colonel (now Sir Lewis) Pelly in 1860. But Ferrier, traveling in 1845, Khanikoff in 1858, and Vambery in 1863, have published most interesting particulars of this much extolled city, its inhabitants, and surroundings ; and to these writers the general public is greatly indebted for the readiness and ability with which they have utilized their labors in print. From the sources named, there is no difficulty in depicting the "Heri" of the present day within the bounds necessary to be observed in an ordinary lecture.

The word “julgah " is commonly applied in the East of Persia to the large tracts of low level ground in a hilly country, lying between long ranges, parts of one mountain system. These, being rather plains than valleys, riverless, but watered from the overhanging mountains, are in some cases fairly fertile; in others partially so; in others almost desert. The large district of Kaian, on the Kaianat, S.W. of the Siah-kuh range, through which I passed when returning from Seistan in 1872, affords a full illustration of my meaning. Now, the valley in which Herat is situated, inclusive of the surrounding plain, is of the most fertile class, and, unlike the ordinary Persian "julgah," is rich in the possession of a river. Its length, from east to west, is put down at 30 miles. It is about 16 miles in breadth, exclusive of the ground taken up by the fortress and walls : four of these miles separate the town from the northern, and twelve from the southern hills, while at one quarter of the latter distance runs the Hari-rud, or Herat river, which, rising near the Kuh-i-Baba, pursues a westerly course till, passing its namesake city, it sweeps, first gradually, then decidedly, to the north, eventually to expend itself or lose its distinctiveness in the environs of Serakhs. But the later progress of this river, both in its junction with the Tejen, and separate diffusion, has yet to be clearly traced. It presents a feature of political as of geographical interest; for it passes between the Persian and Afghan frontier-posts of Kaliriz and Kusun respectively, and may therefore be considered to mark the Perso-Afghan boundary at the Western Paropamisus. Striking an average between conflicting measurements and otherwise carefully weighing the data before us, I think we may accept a description

JBOC Note:  The explanation of Julgah is important here. Land has no real value in that part of the world without water. Along rivers and in the foothills and valleys of mountains where there is water there are people and farms. Without that water it is just worthless desert.

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